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Monthly Archives: September 2011

Salford is seen by some as the black sheep sibling of Manchester. This is unfair. Having spent time on the other side of the Irwell, I can attest to the fact that it is an artistically vibrant city filled with warm-hearted people rightly proud of their rich history.

I’ll even go so far as to argue that it’s a place of beauty. Whilst volunteering as a news broadcaster at Salford City Radio I had to travel from Manchester to the station pretty early in the morning. There was something about sitting on the top deck of the 36 and driving past Salford Shopping City, watching the sun play on the glass-paned tower blocks that enchanted my skewed, romantic sensibilities. Maybe that sounds silly, but to me it was beautiful.

But there is no denying that Salford has its social and economic problems. Now, I’m not qualified to say how best to solve them; that is a massively complicated question best left to cleverer men and women than I. However, reading The Classic Slum: Salford Life in the First Quarter of the Century by Robert Roberts, it becomes clear that these problems have existed for a long time.

Roberts was born in a Salford in 1905, and in this tome he describes working class life in all its complexity. In prose of meticulously researched detail, coloured with anecdotes drawn from his own experiences, he does away with the much-touted myth of the good old days. He shows the truth of George Bernard Shaw’s maxim “the greatst of evils and the worst of crimes is poverty.”

The book is divided into ten chapters, each covering a specific topic such as Possessions, Culture, and Class Structure. Personal favorite chapters featured descriptions of foods that made up the typical diet, the relationships between families and wider society, and the social connotations of different types of clothes.

Roberts shows how the First World War changed the life of working class people (and the whole of England, for that matter) forever – taking us from a world still hung up on Victorian moral codes to an age recognisably modern, showing us along the way how the prison that poverty creates can rarely be broken free from.

The Classic Slum is a compelling read. This was the first book I’ve purchased that could be classed as social history, and I initially chose it almost as a Horrible History for adults, expecting half-humorous descriptions of dilapidated slums, gory disease, jolly patrons of music halls, and looming factories. But the filth and the grim reality of people’s lives left me in no doubt as to the seriousness of existing in such a condition. Frankly, it’s horrible to think we ever allowed people to live like this – even more frightening when you consider the distance that still exists between the richest and the poorest members of society.

For all that, though, this is not a relentless tale of misery. There some particularly heartwarming scenes involving Roberts’ mother and some hugely comic moments too. One in particular that springs to mind involves the quickest way out of Manchester – the route taken being directly to the pub and the destination being a drunken stupor.

If the history of our area interests you, you will enjoy this book immensely, and it’s available from Blackwells on Oxford Road or online at The Book Depository. Go forth and read!

Recently I’ve been wondering if it would be possible to exclusively eat Manchester-associated food for a whole day.

Think about it. We have the Manchester Egg, Eccles Cakes and Bury Black Pudding. There’s enough there to take you through until tea time, with Vimto (both hot and cold) to drink. And come evening you could round off your day with a Lancashire Hot Pot and a Manchester Tart.

But while yes, it would be possible,  it’s probably not practical. It is, however, entirely possible to make the Manchester Tart in the comfort of your own kitchen. I did it this evening, and pictured above and below are the results of my culinary endeavours.

Most of you will remember the Manchester Tart as a pudding mainstay of school dinner menus. Presented in an oblong steel tray with a wibbly coconut-sprinkled top, it was the natural choice when confronted with an alternative of a yellowing apple for desert.

I have fond memories of the jam-laden base topped with gooey bananas and smothered in custard. I found this easy to follow recipe from the BBC, but there are lots of more involved recipes available (for those with more time), and you have to assume they would produce better results.

My version involves a pre-made custard, because frankly making your own looks daunting and, when you factor in the vanilla pods, a touch costly too. I’ll also admit that the pastry is also pre-made; however, I feel toasting the coconut at the end went some way towards making up for this. Well, maybe not. Still, the results were delicious, and I doubt it will survive the evening in the fridge.

An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

Reader, the break between #4 and #5 of this series was not because we were temporarily teetotal. Perish the thought! We found the time to get through the odd drink here and there at the start of September, most notably at Fuel Cafe Bar a while back. You see, they stock Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, which is an absolute treat. An enticing aroma is but a prelude to a rich, full-bodied beverage that is chocolatey enough to live up to its name without being overwhelmingly sweet. The definition of decadence, one bottle simply isn’t enough. Highly recommended.

A few days afterwards, we headed out to Berlin, our home away from home. That involved drinking a hell of a lot of Warsteiner (a standard lager, albeit a cut above more familiar brands) at the festival we attended, plenty of old favourite Augustiner Helles, and any number of weissbier variations. The latter option is definitely the route to take if you find yourself visiting Germany.

Which brings us up to last week. We’re lucky in that our local supermarket has a decent range of domestic beers, so ahead of the book club we host it was the perfect venue to quickly stop off at, pick up a couple of bottles of something-or-other, and then shoot off to prepare for hosting duties.

In the end, it was Marston’s committment to decent strenght Indian pale ales that won the day. Whilst the government is busy slapping an additional 25% tax on beers with an ABV of above 7.5%, connoisseurs have long known that many of the best brews are around that percentage. The two efforts we sampled – Old Empire and Strong Pale Ale – were both close to the 6% mark, which lent them an added punch that plays wonderfully on the palate.

As far as Old Empire is concerned, hops are to the fore in terms of both aroma and taste, with a slightly malty flavour and a hint of citrus. It’s crisp enough to satisfy the post-work need for something refreshing, but not distinctive enough to belong in the upper echelon of IPAs.

Strong Pale Ale, meanwhile, is a step up in quality. A more robust offering in every way, the flavours have a greater complexity, with hops and malts both competing for your attention, which is captured even before that first sip by its lovely earthy aroma.

The book club, alas, was not as successful as previous events, with a limited (albeit passionate) turnout. Which is a shame, considering that In Cold Blood is probably the finest example of literary journalism that has ever been committed to the page. Not one to ponder in an advanced state of inebriation (not least because it’s extremely sombre and sobering in tone), given the prominence of the Troy Davis story in the news it was a particularly timely and appropriate choice.

Monday 26th September to Sunday 2nd October

Saucers: An Exhibition by Aliyah Hussain at North Tea Power

Not content with simply creating an establishment that is a wonderful place to wile away the hours with a good book and some of the finest teas and coffees available in Manchester, the folk at North Tea Power like to host exhibitions too. Saucers is the third in a series curated by Robert Bailey, and features screen-printed works that are based on imaginary designs for flying machines and satellites.

Drive at the Cornerhouse

Having received a ton of buzz during festival season, Nicolas Winding Refn’s heist movie Drive has recently been released to some great reviews. The plot may seem familiar, but it’s the execution that matters, and a fine supporting cast backs up another strong performance from Ryan Gosling. One of the must see films of 2011.

Monday 26th September to Saturday 1st October

Didsbury Arts Festival at various venues

Year in and year out, this city is blessed with any number of ambitious festivals, put together by people who clearly love their work. Having kicked off on Saturday, there’s still another six days to enjoy this cultural takeover of Didsbury, with bands to watch, film screenings to attend, poetry readings, open mic nights, and any number of workshops, exhibitions, and book launches.

Wednesday 28th September to Saturday 1st October

Yves Saint Laurent: Designer In Focus at the Gallery of Costume

For all you fashion types, there’s something of a treat at the Gallery of Costume, which is currently exhibiting a collection of 14 of Yves Saint Laurent’s most iconic outfits. One of the most influential figures in the history of the industry, this is a rare opportunity to see some of his best work up close and in person.

Wednesday 28th September

Male Bonding at the Ruby Lounge

Despite not knowing too much about them, we opted to catch Male Bonding at this year’s Primavera. They turned out to be one of the highlights of the festival. The band already have two great albums under their belt, and they sound even better live. Support comes from The History of Apple Pie and Weird Era.

Thursday 29th September to Saturday 1st October

All The Way Home at the Lowry

A family drama of the kitchen sink variety, All The Way Home tells the story of one evening in Salford, as warring siblings are brought together by impending loss. Examining the meaning of family, and the extent to which disparate individuals can ever truly be united by something as simple and as complicated as shared blood, All The Way Home has all the makings of a theatrical tour de force. Here’s hoping it delivers.

Friday 30th September

Film Noir Movie Night at the Whitworth Art Gallery

What better prelude to a night on the town than Fritz Lang’s M? Well okay, “just about anything” is probably the answer. Still, it’s an absolute classic, and if you don’t mind spending your evening in the company of a serial killer and the city that is frantically pursuing him, you’ll be in for a treat.

It’s 2011, and Manchester has an absolutely thriving music scene. No matter what they tell you, though, it wasn’t always this way. I should know: after all, I was a small part of it during the first decade of the new century, playing drums in a band called, let’s say, The Found Navigation Chart. Throughout that time, this city’s music scene was as much characterised by audience indifference and dreadful bands as anything else. But I’m getting ahead of myself…

It started aged sixteen, when four friends asked me to learn to play the drums. For them, that was easier than having to recruit somebody by meeting new people. I wasn’t all that up for it – it sounded too much like hard work – but It’s hard to say no to friends, and soon enough I was buying drums, arranging lessons, and experiencing the cathartic joy of pounding away on a beautiful new kit.

This happened at the start of 2002. Naturally when it came to establishing the sound of the band, we aimed for Kid A and ended up with a slightly more angsty, less catchy version of Coldplay. Our practise room, for the most part, was a church hall we were allowed to use for free thanks to a rather generous reverend. Occasionally, garages and living rooms would suffice. With little else to do with our lives, we’d lock ourselves away for hours at a time, for days in a row, plotting a path towards indie stardom.

From those humble origins we soon found our feet, and became a little more ambitious. Not always with positive results; one song featured live drums, a drum machine, and a line sampled from Darren Aronofsky’s Pi that was shoehorned in in such a way that is was almost impossible to play around it. Alas, that was to become something of a theme for us – overcomplicating things to the point where actually just playing a song was almost more trouble than it was worth. Perhaps that’s why it took three years of practising before we finally played our first gig. But again, I’m getting ahead of myself…

Over the course of those years, we honed our craft, developed an understanding as musicians, argued a hell of a lot, and – crucially – started listening to better music. Our songs improved massively as a result, and our collective egos had us convinced that we were one of the best bands in Manchester before we’d even played a note in front of an audience.

That wasn’t just arrogance on our part, though; as I’ve already alluded to, the city’s music scene wasn’t exactly in rude health back then. Too many bands were still in thrall to Joy Division, Stone Roses, Oasis et al, and as a result were producing derivative music that wasn’t worth listening to. A good few people – promoters and reviewers and the like – were trying to push things forward, but progress was slow. We honestly thought we could make a difference. How naive we were…

In part two: we start playing gigs and start recording our songs, and critical acclaim quickly follows. The fans, sadly, do not.

On our last visit to Berlin, nearly a year ago, we happened upon a lovely little German restaurant on Oranienburger Straße. We’d been searching for somewhere traditional to eat, having grown sick of the plethora of (admittedly tasty) Turkish kebab houses, warm bakeries, and half-price sushi places.

The pictures below aren’t from that particular meal (of slow cooked knuckle of pork with buttered potatoes and sauerkraut, and roulade of roast lamb with red cabbage and potato dumpling, since you ask), but were the starting point for our culinary German adventures.

We both agreed that there was something quite familiar about the staple Bavarian fodder that reminded us of traditional northern British dishes. All the mainstays are there: a protein consisting of meat or cheese; a strong carbohydrate element in the form of potatoes or bread; and more complex flavors introduced via gravy and stewed vegetables such as cabbage, which add a contrasting acidity and sweetness to cut through the salty meat and heavy potatoes.

If you happen to be in Berlin yourself and fancy some good quality, traditional food then head to Weltrestaurant-Markthalle. Note: when they over you the option of a small portion or a large portion they really do mean large.

Traditional Pork Schnitzel on a bed of fried potatoes with a gravy boat of creamy mushroom sauce. This came with a bowl of fresh green salad, which counterbalanced the plate of indulgent fried food.

Käsespätzle - a traditional dish of thick noodles combined with a cheese sauce topped with battered, deep-fried noodles and a fresh garden salad.

Two meltingly succulent pork chops with a couple of lightly seasoned bread dumplings on a bed of warm sauerkraut and swimming in a deeply meaty gravy.

 

It’s getting towards the end of September, which means that a new crop of fresh-faced youngsters will have descended upon Manchester for their studies, completely changing the complexion of the city in the process. We think that’s a good thing, and so we’ve put together a few pointers for those of you who are new here. Some of it is simple advice we wish somebody had drilled into our heads before we started our degrees, some of it is common sense that so easily ends up forgotten. Hopefully, it’ll prove useful!

1. Don’t forget to put the work in…

You may have been led to believe that the first year of your course isn’t all that important; in most cases, it doesn’t contribute towards your final grade, and the 40% pass rate means that many are content to simply coast. Tempting though that option may be, it’s worth noting that the maxim “start as you mean to go on” applies: if you half-ass your way through the first year, it’s very difficult to get into the hard work mentality in time for the second year, particularly if you spend your summer doing nothing at all. You’d be surprised how many people engage autopilot from day one, and never manage to break free from that setting.

2. …and keep your eyes open for internships that will be beneficial to your career

Here’s the truth of the matter: these days, going to university and coming out with a 2:1 isn’t all that impressive. It’s a creditable result, but you’ll find that at least half the people on your course will achieve the same or higher. Which means that once you’ve graduated, when you find a job you’re interested in, you’ll need something to distinguish yourself from the other applicants. An internship can make all the difference; it’ll look great on your CV, and it’ll show that you’re committed to your chosen career.

3. Money

We know that the prospect of employment won’t sound that exciting to a first year student; after all, there is so much to do as a fresher. However, there’s every chance that your first loan instalment will last all of a month (indeed, Samantha’s somehow lasted less than this). If you’ve never had that much money all at once before, you may not know how to budget it. We’ve both been there, and that first Christmas in halls can be a bit of a nightmare if you’re completely penniless. It’s worth noting that there are plenty of agencies in Manchester that will take on students, particularly closer to December, which is a busy season for the hospitality industry.

Another great tip as far as the loan is concerned is to pop it into a high interest savings account and set up a direct debit to your current account. People who are far better with money than we are did this, and it really ended up benefitting them. Whatever you do, do not blow it all in the first few weeks.

4. Talk to everyone

Seriously, talk to everyone you can during your student life. Never judge a book by its cover: get to know everyone on your course, and everyone in the same halls as you, and folks in bars and clubs. During the first year, you’ll come into contact with a ridiculous number of new people. Granted, six months later you’ll look through your phone and wonder who the hell half the people are, and along the way you’ll likely pick up “friends” who would have been better left on the shelf. But that’s part of the experience, and along the way you’ll meet any number of wonderful individuals.

5. Break free of the Oxford Road corridor

As you’re first finding your way around the city, you’ll be more likely to stick to haunts close to your new digs. Which likely means you’ll be frequenting Oxford Road, and a few of the streets just off said road. That’s fine for the first couple of weeks, but don’t get stuck in a rhythm that lasts all year long, because Manchester has so much to offer. The Northern Quarter, Chorlton, and Didsbury are home to some great drinking establishments for those occasions when you don’t fancy just getting pissed; Salford Quays on a sunny day is a wonderful place to visit, with plenty of things to do; and FC United play up in Bury, if you’re a football fan whose interest extends beyond the mainstream. Put simply: don’t just end up in Fifth Avenue every single time you go out.

6. No musical instruments at social gatherings

By all means, bring your instrument with you, or buy one and learn to play: Manchester is a great city for music. Just make sure you leave it in your room when it’s time for the social craic to start up. You don’t want to turn into the individual who always brings their instrument with them. At best, people will think you are a somewhat talented show off; at worst, they will think you are a poor musician who only brought his guitar with him as a cheap ploy to appear sensitive and get laid for it. So many people fall into this trap: don’t become another victim. On a broader note, don’t resort to gimmicks in an attempt to win popularity. Let people get to know the real you. They’ll either like you or they won’t, leaving you free to either a) make friends with them or b) move on to the next individual.

7. Put some thought into your food and drink choices…

If you are in some kind of shared accommodation, talk to your housemates and see if you can agree to pool your resources and cook together. You will save a ton of cash and have a bigger budget with which to purchase your weekly shop. If you can’t get people to agree to do this, then make meals such as shepherd’s pie in bulk and pop a few portions in the freezer. Also, carry a drinks bottle filled up with squash in your bag. If you tot up all the times you pop into a shop for a fizzy drink during a week, you’ll be surprised at how much you spend.

8. …and your clothing purchases

Check out some of the independent clothes shops in the Northern Quarter, as you can sometimes negotiate on price and you’ll generally come away with something unique (rather than the same old Top Shop-Primark-H&M outfits everyone will be wearing). In addition, places like the Ram & Shackle and the Creative Corner Cafe hold sales events where people set up stalls to sell their wares or to help you modify existing items, which could be very helpful when you’re short of cash. Those of you on fashion courses will likely have an enterprise module, where you’ll be tasked with setting up your own mock-business, and such avenues will be helpful during your studies.

9. Avoid the easily avoidable pitfalls

Manchester is a great place to live, and a great place to go out; however, like any city, there are certain things that you should always steer clear of. Indeed, we could have written an entire post on this alone, but let’s keep it simple. Firstly, don’t put your drink down in a busy club; most people who’ve lived in here for any length of time will either have had their drink spiked or else know of someone who has. Secondly, avoid Manchester’s parks after dark; they’re fantastic during the day (as long as the weather holds out), but they’re not safe at night, and saving a few minutes of time just isn’t worth the risk. And thirdly, don’t buy drugs from people on the street or in clubs; chances are that all they’ll be selling you is lies, not to mention substances far more dangerous than what they purport to have for sale.

10. And remember: not everyone loves students 

We’re all for students; they contribute a huge amount to Manchester, financially, socially, and even culturally. Many of them (Samantha included) opt to stay on after university having fallen in love with the place. Most of our friends have at one time or another studied at MMU, UoM, or SU. So we’re definitely pro-student. However, by the same token a significant number of people find them really, really annoying as a rule. You can help not perpetuate negative stereotypes by being polite and respectful to individuals who work in the takeaways, shops, and bars that you frequent. Similarly, if you’re on the bus, be aware that not everyone wants to hear your personal conversation take place at ear-splitting volume. Basically, don’t act in a way that draws unnecessary attention to the fact that you’re a student.

Another few quick tips:

  • Photograph your room when you move in, especially anything that is damaged. Keep the photos, unaltered on your PC so you have a record of the date they were created. This is just in case the landlord tries to screw you over for existing damage when you move out.
  • If you’re in Student Village (or any kind of halls) make friends with the security staff. They’ll watch your back, and they’re the ones who conduct room inspections when you move out.
  • Get an NUS card. You can get a wider range of discounts than with your library card alone.
  • When looking for a house be aware that estate agents will describe Moss Side as “Rusholme”, and Whalley Range as “Chorlton.”
  • Even if you feel lonely at first, try not to go home at the weekends too often. Everyone feels like this from time to time, but that feeling will quickly pass. Simply get out of your room and go and do something!
  • Check out the special books collection on the fourth floor of the MMU All Saints Library. They have a really fantastic range of unique handmade books. It’ll provide you with an interesting few hours.

Apologies for our absence last week. We were living it up in Berlin, which made it a lot more difficult to keep our ears to the ground (and our eyes on Twitter) as far as Manchester events were concerned. We’re back just in time for freshers week, but don’t worry: if fancy-dress-themed debauchery isn’t your cup of tea, there’s still plenty to do.

Tuesday 20th September

Fear Of Men and The Louche FC at the Castle

Two buzz bands for the price of less than one? An absolute bargain, and it helps that both Fear Of Men and The Louche FC are well worth your time. Another positive: the Castle’s backroom makes for a great little venue. Not to be missed.

Wednesday 21st September

The Great Gatsby at The Met

Bury may be a little further out than you would usually venture, but the Metrolink makes travel easy enough, and an opportunity to see The Great Gatsby – an absolutely superlative novel, elements of which certainly lend themselves to the theatre – is not one to pass up.

Thursday 22nd September

Slow Club at the Ruby Lounge

Sheffield’s finest, Slow Club have carved out a niche for themselves as a cutesy indie pop with actual chops. With new album Paradise released last week, now’s as good a time as any to see them.

Friday 23rd September

Underachievers Please Try Harder at the Roadhouse

The long-awaited return of one of our favourite club nights. After a brief stint at Gullivers, Underachievers will now be starring at the Roadhouse, which could well be a marriage made in heaven. After Let’s Buy Happiness and Evans The Death (both worth getting down early for) have provided the music, make sure you’ve got your dancing shoes on for a tour through the very best indie rock.

Saturday 24th September

Ford Madox Brown: Pre-Raphaelite Pioneer at Manchester Art Gallery

Given that Manchester’s most recent tribute to 19th century painter Ford Madox Brown was the naming of a Wetherspoon’s after him, a new retrospective is somewhat overdue. Spanning the length of his career, this exhibition considers the influence Brown had on the artists who followed him.

Sunday 25th September

American Street Fun Fair at Tib Street

To commemorate 10 years of Northern Quarter bar and restaurant Simple…, Tib Street will be transformed into a haven of rides and cheerleaders and cotton candy and any number of other American-themed trappings. Should be a colourful day’s entertainment…

Manchester Print Fair at the Night & Day

…and whilst you’re in the area, the Manchester Print Fair is being launched at the Night & Day. Celebrating the best of local art and design, you’ll be able to pick up prints, posters, and all manner of publications. Worth dropping by and checking out what’s on offer: there’s plenty of great zines and the like being produced in this city, many of which will be available here.

Bad Shoes Art Festival at Dulcimer and Elektrik

Rounding off a busy Sunday, don’t forget to save enough time to head out to Chorlton for the Bad Shoes Art Festival, a collaboration between Bad Language Manchester and Shoestring Magazine. With music and artists at Dulcimer and literature and crafts at Elektrik, there should be a diverse mix of culture on offer.

I hadn’t heard a single note by The Naked and Famous until the week before Berlin Festival. I hadn’t been interested in listening to them either, but I make a point of checking out every band ahead of time, so I know heading in who to see and who to skip. Having played it through, Passive Me, Aggressive You didn’t do a whole lot for me. It struck me as extremely generic indie rock that, whilst in no way objectionable, would forever struggle to be anything other than somewhat pleasant background music.

Skip forward a week and we’re lingering around the main stage, waiting for Beirut, when The Naked and Famous start up. What followed was an excellent set, a powerful performance from a band I would have been only too happy to write off as wuss rock. I doubt I’ll ever listen to their music in the comfort of my own home, but for forty-five minutes they killed it, and I loved the hell out of them.

Of course, this phenomenon is not at all uncommon, as anyone with experience of festivals can no doubt attest. Often, the band you enjoy the most will come completely out of left field. The flip side, unfortunately, is that favourite bands can end up falling short of expectations, often for reasons that are nigh on impossible to pinpoint.

Take The National. There was no band I was more looking forward to seeing at this year’s Primavera. It had been far too long since I’d last seen them live, and they’d only grown in stature since. And they were good, no question, but not in the life-affirming, transcendent way I was hoping for. Was that partly my fault for going in with such high expectations? Perhaps, but I felt that their last three records provided plentiful evidence of a band that could own such grand occasions. In the end, the vastness of the Llevant stage and the surrounding area was just too much for them to fill, and I was left a touch disappointed.

Festivals are both the best and the worst place to see any band. If everything clicks, then you’re liable to have an incredible time. The problem is that so many factors can work against you. Technical difficulties are pretty common, as are stages that just don’t sound very good. A failure to strike the correct food-beer balance can be fatal, meaning that you peak too early or too late, or not at all. Tiredness can set in unexpectedly, especially abroad, where the festivals tend to run until six in the morning and one bad night’s sleep can ruin everything. If the audience isn’t up for a given band, it’s all the more difficult to get into them. Festival attendance involves running a gauntlet of obstacles, and only after you’ve overcome them can you truly start enjoying yourself.

I’d be about ready to question why I still make the effort, but the answer is easy: hearing “Common People” or “All My Friends” or “Do You Realize??” in the midst of a mass of people who are all as excited and up for it as you are is incomparable. Which is why, for all the pitfalls, I’m not ready to quit festivals just yet.

Music festivals typically provide a range of distractions for those occasions when you’re burnt out on bands and need a change of pace. Berlin Festival was no exception; as well as several decent chillout areas (complete with hammock-type structures), and a fantastic range of food, there was a little village where artists were working live on large canvases, creating pieces and murals with limited supplies as audience members watched on. On the second day, we wandered over camera in hand to take a closer look.

Berlin is pretty legendary for its graffiti (one could easily spend their entire holiday here traipsing around the city in search of great pieces on the sides of buildings and always find something new), so the village felt like a natural fit, and it was no surprise to see that a number of strong, striking images had been created…

…which really added something to the already spectacular setting. From the outside, Tempelhof is an immense, imposing building that appears nothing like an airport until you get inside, with the odd decommissioned plane still inhabiting a space that saw use during World War II. Some sixty-five years on, and it’s hosting a yearly music festival, complete with pieces by some of the most talented individuals creating art in the city. How quickly things can change!

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