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Have One On Us

Have One On Us #6: BrewDog Manchester

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May 12, 2012
Have One On Us
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We’re only just recovering from the almighty hangover we acquired following the BrewDog launch night last Thursday, so apologies for the delay in sharing our thoughts with you.

To open, a rather grandiose statement that is nevertheless absolutely true: without BrewDog, the microbrewing revolution would not have progressed at the same pace these last few years, and as a result the state of Manchester’s bar scene would be very different.

The explosive growth of the company has inspired individuals across the country to try their hand at brewing, and as craft ales have grown in both popularity and quality an increasing number of establishments have started serving them.

Take Font, for example. What was once nothing more than a venue providing students with £2 cocktails to get them pissed now has one of the best stocked bars in the city. Other similar tales are not hard to find.

Why? Because craft ales are suddenly big business, with a large part of the credit due to BrewDog taking them mainstream.

This raises an important question: is there a place for a BrewDog bar in Manchester? If everywhere from the dives to the pubs to the bars already serve BrewDog, can a dedicated venue truly offer a unique experience?

The answer, we’re happy to report, is “yes.” What helps is BrewDog’s choice of location. Initially planning to setup in the Northern Quarter, the company shifted its focus to Peter Street, an area that has fallen on hard times after once having plenty of (admittedly awful) drinking establishments. Which Sam can attest to, having once worked in Brannigans, where she was made to dance to “Don’t Blame It On The Sunshine” at four in the morning – wearing a papier mache comedy head, no less – before cleaning the bar. BrewDog’s arrival could well spark positive revitalisation.

Whilst the exterior might put you in mind of an All Saint’s shop, and give rise to fears that this is little more than a fancy spot for trendy arseholes, inside the aesthetic is kept pleasingly simple, with good use of wood and glass and extra illumination coming from raw light fittings, which gives an industrial rough-around-the-edges feel to the place.

Seating is sparse, and includes a handful of wooden benches that reminded us of secondary school science class, and the music is kept quiet, creating the perfect ambience for conversation. The bar staff were friendly and attentive, clearly clued in about what they were selling and happy to dish out samples.

The place was quiet when we arrived post-work but soon became busy. We dubbed the press wristband we were given the “booze band,” and endeavoured to take full advantage of the free drinks it entitled us to. If you happen to come with someone for whom good quality beer is not a big deal, then there is a range of good quality spirits, ciders, and wines available. But, of course, the main attraction is the extensive range of BrewDog’s own beers.

The brewer has a well-deserved reputation for quality, with Punk one of the best flagship brands offered by anyone anywhere in the world, a sharp fruity burst of pure flavour. Dead Pony Club is a new pale ale that clocks in at just 3.8% yet still offers a firm, robust taste. Zeitgeist is a deep, smoky black lager. Riptide is a rich, chocolatey stout. IPA is Dead Galaxy is like a supercharged version of Punk. Hardcore a wonderfully malty, bitter ale with notes of caramel and toffee.

We were also lucky enough to sample BrewDog’s fifth anniversary beer Dog A, which clocked in at 15.1% and combined chocolate and coffee with Naga chilli. We went out on Tokyo, which we’d been meaning to sample for some time. Given its high percentage, it was no surprise the evening ended in a blurry haze, but we had a great time reaching that point.

Reading the notes we’d made the next day – hastily scrawled sentences that were barely legible and of no great use when composing this piece – was a fun experience. The message was simple enough: not only do BrewDog do an incredible job with their beers, they also get their bars right too.

We’d wholeheartedly recommend making your way down to BrewDog one night. You’ll need to make sure you’re rather flush when you do, though, as the prices are a little on the steep side. That being said, you do have to pay for quality, and more often than not it really is better to spend £20 on a few good beers, as opposed to many mediocre ones.

Have One On Us #5

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September 28, 2011
Augustiner Brau, Have One On Us, Marston's, Young's
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An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

Reader, the break between #4 and #5 of this series was not because we were temporarily teetotal. Perish the thought! We found the time to get through the odd drink here and there at the start of September, most notably at Fuel Cafe Bar a while back. You see, they stock Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, which is an absolute treat. An enticing aroma is but a prelude to a rich, full-bodied beverage that is chocolatey enough to live up to its name without being overwhelmingly sweet. The definition of decadence, one bottle simply isn’t enough. Highly recommended.

A few days afterwards, we headed out to Berlin, our home away from home. That involved drinking a hell of a lot of Warsteiner (a standard lager, albeit a cut above more familiar brands) at the festival we attended, plenty of old favourite Augustiner Helles, and any number of weissbier variations. The latter option is definitely the route to take if you find yourself visiting Germany.

Which brings us up to last week. We’re lucky in that our local supermarket has a decent range of domestic beers, so ahead of the book club we host it was the perfect venue to quickly stop off at, pick up a couple of bottles of something-or-other, and then shoot off to prepare for hosting duties.

In the end, it was Marston’s committment to decent strenght Indian pale ales that won the day. Whilst the government is busy slapping an additional 25% tax on beers with an ABV of above 7.5%, connoisseurs have long known that many of the best brews are around that percentage. The two efforts we sampled – Old Empire and Strong Pale Ale – were both close to the 6% mark, which lent them an added punch that plays wonderfully on the palate.

As far as Old Empire is concerned, hops are to the fore in terms of both aroma and taste, with a slightly malty flavour and a hint of citrus. It’s crisp enough to satisfy the post-work need for something refreshing, but not distinctive enough to belong in the upper echelon of IPAs.

Strong Pale Ale, meanwhile, is a step up in quality. A more robust offering in every way, the flavours have a greater complexity, with hops and malts both competing for your attention, which is captured even before that first sip by its lovely earthy aroma.

The book club, alas, was not as successful as previous events, with a limited (albeit passionate) turnout. Which is a shame, considering that In Cold Blood is probably the finest example of literary journalism that has ever been committed to the page. Not one to ponder in an advanced state of inebriation (not least because it’s extremely sombre and sobering in tone), given the prominence of the Troy Davis story in the news it was a particularly timely and appropriate choice.

Have One On Us #4

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August 24, 2011
Have One On Us, Port Street Beer House, Thornbridge Brewery

An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

If the fact that Thornbridge Brewery started their day’s work at half four in the morning is not proof enough of how committed they are to their craft, then the drinks they brought with them to Port Street Beer House’s latest Meet the Brewer event settled the issue decisively. Thornbridge used the evening as a showcase for new and exclusive brews, each of which suggested that their future will be particularly bright.

First drink Summer Ale is aptly named, being as it is a lighter-than-air lager-type effort that is suffused with fresh-picked sage and, more noticeably, ginger: the kind of drink that is perfect for wiling away the remaining hours of summer, in other words, and a perfect start to the night. It calls to mind Marble Brewery’s Ginger, and round these parts that is a massive compliment.

A striking-yet-pleasing fizz is the first thing you notice upon tasting Kipling, at which point it becomes clear that the brewery isn’t quite as hostile to the mainstream as some of their peers. The difference is, of course, that the big name brands deliver all fizz and no flavour, whilst Thornbridge’s brews have the right level of complexity about them. Kipling is a well-rounded, full-bodied beer that starts with an initial sweetness and finishes with a sharp bitterness, and like Summer Ale, is highly drinkable.

The third beer only serves to push our opinion even higher. The sweetest drink of the night, Seaforth is also something of a challenge, in the best possible way. Subtle notes of citrus, the slightest hint of toffee, an abundance of English hops, and an exceptional maltiness all compete for your attention, before eventually setting down and sitting wonderfully on the palate. Inspiring equal amounts of debate and enjoyment, for us Seaforth is the highlight of the evening.

Alchemy 8VI, a dry hop barley wine, is a fantastic way to bring the evening to a close, providing a deep, intense flavour with no small amount of kick that goes down an absolute treat. For the uninitiated, barley wines really do taste like a cross between beer and wine (which takes a little time to get used to!). In this case, once you’re acclimatised notes of toffee and caramel are to the fore, along with a distinctive woodiness and a pleasing dryness that rounds off each sip.

Once the drinks have been consumed, the delicious Bakewell tart has been polished off, and the money has run out, it is unfortunately time to leave. But we’ll be back, and if you weren’t lucky enough to be there, you should make every effort to visit Port Street whilst Thornbridge’s brews are still the main event. You won’t be disappointed.

Have One On Us #3

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August 16, 2011
Augustiner Brau, Brakspear, Dark Star Brewery, Drink, Have One On Us, Hook Norton Brewery, Port Street Beer House, Summer Wine Brewery

An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

Given the stigma attached to the likes of Carlsberg Special Brew and Tennent’s Super – extra-strength beers that are less about enjoying a nice cold one than about inducing unconsciousness - it’s somewhat surprising that in recent years, stronger ales have been growing in popularity among aficionados. BrewDog have arguably been at the forefront of this, offering a number of beers that either push or exceed 10% ABV, including the ridiculous-for-more-than-just-its-reductive-name Sink the Bismarck!, which clocks in at a staggering 41%. Still, however you feel about their attention-grabbing antics, this approach has helped the brewery achieve nationwide recognition in a comparatively short space of time, whilst introducing a significant number of drinkers to the joys of higher percentages.

Of course, this isn’t an entirely new development. Dating back to at least the middle of the 20th century, the word “tripel” has been used as a banner term to indicate strength. Brakspear’s Triple represented our first foray into this arena, and we’re happy to report back that it was a complete success. Upon pouring, the colouring immediately catches your eye, as dark clouds swirl around the top of the glass before settling. The depth of flavour is initially disarming, and this intensity takes a few sips to get used to. Once your palate has adjusted, however, you’ll start to appreciate the wonderful complexity of this drink, and its balanced notes of toffee and fruit.

Later on in the week, a brief stop off at Port Street Beer House was as fruitful as it always is. Augustiner Helles is one of the only lagers we drink these days, with good reason. Sometimes you crave nothing more than a clean, crisp, refreshing beverage, and Augustiner’s flagship brand more than delivers on all of these fronts. We spent a fair amount of time in Berlin last year, during which we proved that it is pretty much the perfect session beer. Its increasing prevalence in Manchester is something to be grateful for.

We were also happy to partake in a Summer Wine Brewery offering that was new to us. The pump clip for The Benz promises an aromatic black, and the drink certainly delivers that. Blessed with a wonderfully deep black colour, it’s the kind of beer that lights up the senses before the first drop has hit your mouth. The taste is pitched somewhere between a stout and a porter, with hops very much to the fore, which the fruity malts complement perfectly. Another unqualified success from Summer Wine!

To round the week off, we opted for Hook Norton Brewery’s Old Hooky. A golden brown colour gives way to a deep, woody taste that dominates the beverage, lingering on the tongue to a far greater extent that the subtle hint of fruit. Slightly more complex than your average beer, it’s light enough that it goes down easily, but certainly isn’t for session drinking. Definitely one to add to the hypothetical beer cellar.

Have One On Us #2

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August 7, 2011
Beartown, Briton's Protection, Drink, Have One On Us

An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

Nipping into the Briton’s Protection for a quick couple a week or so ago, we were confronted with an unusually rawkus bar area, which we were keen to escape for the comfort of the snug. Quickly perusing the on tap selection, the name Beartown caught our eye, so we ordered two pints, bade a hasty retreat, sat ourselves down, and enjoyed our drinks.

Established in 1994, Beartown is perhaps best described as a gateway brewery on the road to more complex offerings. It produces cut-above-average beers that aren’t the most distinctive in the world, with a bottled range that is interesting enough to provide the seasoned drinker with a pleasant night in.

Kodiak Gold in particular fits that mould. It lacks punch, but that shouldn’t always be seen as a criticism, as the mellow end of the spectrum can be fantastic when done right. Very wheaty and ever-so-slightly sweet, it slips down easily enough, and is not as bitter as the label suggests, with notes of citrus and hops shining through.

Bruin’s Ruin also has a certain sweetness to it, due to the hint of toffee that permeates the drink. Copper coloured with a woody aroma, the rich body adds character to what is a tasty enough bitter. Bearskinful, on the other hand, is an absolute treat; whilst trace amounts of honey were detectable in the previous two brews, here it is very much to the fore. Light enough to be drank as a session beer (something which the name cheekily alludes to), and moreish enough that you’ll be happy doing exactly that.

To finish, we chose a Polar Eclipse, which is best described as a beginner’s stout. What that entails is a smooth, mild beverage, with little to distinguish it in terms of flavour. If you haven’t yet explored stouts at any great length, then Polar Eclipse is probably as good a place as any to start.

Overall, these four beers weren’t quite as complex as those we’d usually plump for, but there is still plenty to recommend about them. In particular, Bearskinful is worth seeking out, and as the brewery seems to be gaining ground in both pubs and supermarkets, you may not have to look too hard to find it.

Have One On Us #1

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July 31, 2011
Drink, Have One On Us, Port Street Beer House, Summer Wine Brewery

An ongoing series documenting our search for the best beers available in Manchester.

Freshly nominated for Best Newcomer and Best Bar in the 2011 Manchester Food & Drink Awards, Port Street Beer House was a favourite of ours before we’d even stepped in. A friend informed us that it was a veritable mecca of beers, and that recommendation proved to be spot on: with a superb selection drawn from the major brewing nations, Port Street has fast established itself as the city’s go to venue for connoisseurs.

That label seems even more apt now that the venue has launched its Meet The Brewer events. For the first of these, Summer Wine Brewery were the guests. Managing director Andy Baker and head brewer James Farran were honest enough to admit that their early efforts could best be described as “accountant’s beers.” Fortunately, they’ve come a long way in a short space of time, and have worked hard to ensure that they stand out in a crowded marketplace – not through attention-grabbing gimmicks, but by fostering a spirit of innovation that is evident in every new release.

Upon arrival we were presented with five raffle tickets, to be exchanged for different drinks over the course of the night. We decided to start with the Valencia Pale Ale, and that proved to be a good decision. Pale ales can sometimes be a little wishy washy, but Summer Wine Brewery have judged this one just right, offering up a distinctive beer with a wonderful citrus aroma that is but a precursor to the taste. A sharp burst of orange and lemon shines through every sip, and a pleasant sweetness pervades.

The Rogue-Hop, pictured above, is arresting before you even taste it, an inviting shade of red with a lovely woody aroma. Like the Valencia Pale Ale, fruit flavours are to the fore, with notes of cherry, blackcurrant, and grape all standing out. It was accompanied by the best pork pie I have ever eaten in my life, courtesy of Wilsons Butchers.

The Saison Nettle & Ginger is the first of four saisons set to be released by Summer Wine Brewery in the near future. These days, ginger has become a particularly fashionable ingredient, yet in this instance it’s used extremely well, as a background flavour rather than as an overly prominent feature, making for a light, refreshing beer ideal for the handful of warm summer days we still have remaining.

The next couple of drinks ramped up proceedings in terms of potency. Diablo IPA is the brewery’s flagship brand, and having tasted it we can understand exactly why Port Street’s proprietors fell in love with it at January’s National Winner Ales Festival. It’s a well-rounded dry ale possessed of just the right amount of bitterness, and wonderfully fresh to boot.

7 C’s of Rye is positively lethal; it’s probably a good thing that tasting occurred in half-pint increments, because any more would’ve likely had us on the floor! However, the punch it packs doesn’t disguise it’s delicious malty, biscuity body.

To finish things off, the Summer Wine Brewery boys recommended Teleporter as the ideal palate cleanser. One of the best dark ales we’ve ever tasted, it’s mellow and subtle, like a Saturday morning coffee that immediately perks you right up, sending us off home in very high spirits.

All in all it was an excellent evening. Summer Wine Brewery stands out as one of the country’s finest brewers, run by two gentlemen who are clearly passionate about their work. We recommend that you make your way to Port Street and sample their beers as soon as possible.

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